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Paul Jeeves
ParticipantLike most things on sailboats, it’s gonna be a compromise between various things. You’ll need to get the prop deep enough into the water that it’s effective (at LEAST 1 ½ times the prop diameter) and be able to lift the prop far enough out of the water so that it doesn’t create drag when under sail (and when heeled over).
Storing the gas is another matter. I assume that the main engine is diesel, so you’ve likely not given the diesel fuel much thought. Remember that gasoline is different. The fumes like to run downhill, so even storing gas topside does not prevent the fumes from flowing along your deck, down any hatchway and in the cabin or bilge where a spark from an electric motor, stove, etc can cause a bit of a bang. In other words, give carful consideration to where you store the gas for the outboard.
Good luck with the project.
Paul Jeeves
ParticipantSorry for the delay. Sorry, I don’t know anyone near there.
March 22, 2021 at 5:59 pm in reply to: Advice on Albacore wood and fiberglass repairs, mast footing/step location rot, etc #84678Paul Jeeves
ParticipantFirst, don’t let it scare you. It’s not difficult to do. First, cut away the old fiberglass that encases the wood, then remove the wood. Clean the surface by sanding it smooth to an area about 3 times the width of the wood that you’ll be replacing. the old fiberglass may give you an idea of where you need to prepare to.
You’ll need to replace the wood. If it’s teak it will cost you. I’d be inclined to make a rigid foam laminate as it will be much cheaper. Simply layer some rigid foam and fibreglass into a multi-layer sandwich. Then, cut it to the desired shape.
Once that’s done, it’s time to fibreglass. You have two choices – polyester and epoxy. Polyester is cheap, but epoxy is easier to work with…much easier, and doesn’t smell. YouTube is full of videos explaining how to do this step.
Good luck, and feel free to ask if you need help.
Paul Jeeves
ParticipantI think the powder-coat requires a perfectly clean surface, but I could be wrong. I thought about wood, but it’s uncontrollable (I’ve finally decided on a diesel forced air system).
The design of the boat has forced me to re-think the overhead traveller (balance issues with the amount of boat that’s below the water line. I’ve decided to mount the traveller on the cabin just forward of the new hard dodger. A little extra purchase makes it work without too much additional sheet required.
The tank and pump system is a top quality system and I’ve decided to keep it. It’s more convenient for the type of sailing we do, and where most of our sailing takes place.
I’ve been convinced to go with solar and forego the wind power. Fortunately, if it’s a mistake it’s an easily remedied mistake – it can be added later as my new electrical system has been designed to be scalable and upgradable without significant modification.
ADS and Radar are no-brainers, but one of the contractors who’s performing some work on the boat has also talked me into an infrared camera, to be mounted under the radar head.
Thanks for your thoughts.
Paul Jeeves
ParticipantTry Minney’s. http://www.minneysyachtsurplus.com/ for the sails. Their inventory of used sails is huge.
They may also have the rudder, or just find a good fibreglass guy or”jack of all trades” person and have one fabricated. If you can tell me roughly where you are I may be able to recommend someone.
Paul Jeeves
ParticipantGood point on the cost. Interesting, in the time between my initial post and your response, I rethought the idea of stainless. I’m thinking now to remove the swing-keel and refinish it (welder and grinder) as it’s pretty banged-up. Then I’ll just have it powder-coated before the bottom paint is applied. The powder-coating is tough stuff and resists the salt water elements well. So that should satisfy this part of my Wishlist.
Paul Jeeves
ParticipantDo you have a photo or diagram of the transom? I can’t recall how the transom is designed – meaning, does it slope vertically downward from the deck and aft, or vertically upward from the water line and aft. Or is simply it vertical with no slope.
Paul Jeeves
ParticipantBruce’s reply is the most likely. However, since the bag would have to be tied to the ring, it seems a bit redundant, unless the spinnaker bag was equipped with some sort of metal clip to speed installation and removal, in which case I like the idea and am thinking to install just such a ring!
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