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Looking a little further, the foot of a J24 main is only 9’9″. About the same as the J measurement on the MacGregor. Hoisting that sail at the angle of the forestay would mean cutting the foot of the main far enough up the leech to make the sail about 90% (rough guess). So now, not only is it expensive to do but the sail ends out too small.
We agree with wewhite74. It’s not the best idea to convert a mainsail to a headsail. Re-cuts are expensive. Patches, batten pockets, reefs, etc. are rarely in the correct location for the new spec.
Sorry, we’re not familiar with that brand. Any chance Helmets is an unintended autocorrect for Halmatic?
Hi lyearsley, sorry but we do not have that information ourselves. It shouldn’t be too hard to figure out though. We’re guessing you do not have the old line. If your spin or jib sheet fit, run one of those lines through your traveler then measure the length used. If they don’t fit, any line or length of string will do.
Hello oscarkramer. Great suggestions. We’ll look into adding a centerboard only checkbox in advanced search.
In the meantime, the way the Draft box works in advanced search is, if you put a number in Under only, it will return boats with a minimum draft less than what you have asked for. Only boats with a variable keel have minimum draft.
Of course you all also get boats with fixed keels less than the Under you searched for but if you are searching for cruisers over, say 30 feet with a draft under, say, 2.5 feet, your results by definition will only return variable keel boats (which include lifting keel, swing keel, etc).
Hope this helps.Hi Paul,
The Center for Wooden Boats might have something or someone who can point you in the right direction? https://www.cwb.org.Just a thought.
Hi gzulauf3837. Have you tried checking out the Albacore class associations? The international Association (https://albacore.org) has links to groups in the US, Canada and the UK. Those, in turn, have forums, contact info and links to fleets. Perhaps you can find someone there who can help?
According to one oar manufacturer we found… Shaw and Tenny (https://www.shawandtenney.com/how-size-your-oars)… The ideal oar length for a boat with a 4’ beam is 7’6″.
Hey Ben, Are you in the Mystic CT area? I know Norwalk YC frostbites Dyer Dhows. Not sure if they have club owned boats or not. You’d have to check with someone there.
This isn’t something that can necessarily be answered here. Too many variables. I’m more of a small boat one-design sailor. That said, your head probably has a Y valve that can direct waste to either a holding tank or directly out through a through-hull into the open water. This valve should always be switched to directing waste into the holding tank (unless you are offshore) and the through-hull closed. Could that valve be open allowing seawater to back in?
It depends on your boat, the rig (masthead or fractional) and which line you want to recover but the reality is there are no old tricks… You’ll need a bosun chair (or something like a Mast Mate) and a couple of good friends! Please read up on how to use it and be careful.
