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Viewing 10 posts - 16 through 25 (of 25 total)
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  • in reply to: C & C Frigate 36 Refit #84519
    Mark Ayers
    Participant

    I would put on a good coat of Ospho before the powder coating for additional rust protection.
    Also on the heat, several companies offer small wood burning stoves for boats. Amazing how much heat energy is in wood, easy to store and will never explode, also pretty easy to find during your travels. Just a thought. I like the idea of overhead travelers! the only thing about composites is they are good up to a point and then they let go all at once and would be very difficult to fix at sea. stainless, while heavy, will bend and flex quite a ways before letting go. Also just another thought…
    I’ve heard good things on the composting heads, but if your not going out for weeks at a time, I’m not sure you would really get much benefit and it is another take out and replace project, so maybe that can wait awhile, especially if your tank and pump are working well. Solar is a good bet if your keeping the boat for several years. it is getting cheaper too, but make sure you have the battery system to keep up with your needs as well.
    I really like the AIS system and they now are offering a new option to AIS B+ . I’m not sure what all equipment you have and how much ocean traffic you are encountering but I would put a vote in for this system. Cheers Mark

    in reply to: Sailing Boat Calculations #84230
    Mark Ayers
    Participant

    Chris, where are you seeing S# ? I don’t recall seeing that in any calculations. Could be Serial number?
    Mark

    in reply to: Beneteau First 235 electrical panel #84115
    Mark Ayers
    Participant

    I don’t think those will be battery selectors at all. rocker type switches are usually 15 amp or less load.
    they are clearly aftermarket and probably replaced two of the original rocker switches in those locations.
    Panel would indicate that they are fused. you can check the fuses and see what value they were fused at.
    I’m going to guess this is power for some accessories, could be pumps, windless, etc… Or they could be main power on/off to the accessory panel itself.

    in reply to: Endurance 35 passage upwind, beating #84098
    Mark Ayers
    Participant

    Just my thought here, but If going to go to a genoa, I would do 130% or less with your ketch rig.
    Also, sail shape is very important. With your 35 you are wanting a power sail shape rather than speed sail shape. The deeper the pocket (assuming it’s in the right place) the more power you get. the more shallow the pocket the more speed, but you loose the power. Your Endurance is probably displacing 19,000+lbs and Hull speed is 7-8 knots I’m guessing. I would make sure your new sail is set for a power draft. That will help move the weight of the boat better through chop and swell
    I used to race Hobie 16’s and it taught me a lot about sail shape and tuning.
    Best of Luck!

    in reply to: Endurance 35 passage upwind, beating #84096
    Mark Ayers
    Participant

    Mick, Does you Endurance have a full or shoal keel, this would be the biggest difference in how she heads to wind, but also I’m not sure what angle of attack you are talking about to apparent wind. Also, how she is loaded is going to effect her performance as well. But when in doubt sheet out the head sails and leave the main sheeted tight. this will use the headsails to make the main more efficient. Also depending on your angle, you may be cutting off the air to your mizzen, so falling off to say 30+ degrees may be much better headway for your boat. Swell, usually doesn’t make that much difference in actual headway, unless your sail shape is off.
    Hope this helps… Mark

    Mark Ayers
    Participant

    just get something built strong and check her over good. the Center cockpit gives a good ride. I personally prefer an aft helm with better visibility, but would still like an aft cabin as well… there are a lot of good boats out there for sale, just make sure to get a survey. Some surprises can be nasty…

    in reply to: Information wanted on C&C 24’ sailboat #83968
    Mark Ayers
    Participant

    What kind of information are you looking for? I have a 1974 Coronado 23-2 and not a C&C, but they are ( and most are) very similar. Let me know if I can help.
    thanks Mark

    in reply to: Northern 29 Bilge #83967
    Mark Ayers
    Participant

    you should have a bilge pump in there somewhere. Look for the lowest point in your bilge possible right behind or under the motor. the switch may not be marked, and there are manual bilge pumps available, but I’m sure this has an electric (12v) pump and really should have two, a primary and a backup.
    the switch may be located on your power panel. By the layout on Sailboat data probably just to the starboard or port side of your companion way. (door to the cockpit)

    in reply to: Kicker Motors, how to fix the old ones #83966
    Mark Ayers
    Participant

    set the points at .15 to .17 of an inch. this is pretty close to a 30deg dwell and you should be in the ball park. a set of feeler gages should work failrly well. As far as them being run off the flywheel, then their must be a way of setting them with it on, or like you say a weird special tool, but I’m inclined to think that volvo would have a way to access the setting with the flywheel on.
    Mark

    in reply to: Gulf 29 Pilothouse outboard fuel consumption #83964
    Mark Ayers
    Participant

    Hey Marty, the 15hp merc will burn about 1.35 gallons per hour at WOT ( wide open throttle).
    I would suspect your best fuel economy would be at about 70 to 75% of WOT and you would be right around 1.00 gallon/hr. how much speed you get in relation to Hull speed is going to be dependent on wind direction, wind speed, and how clean the hull is… but I’m guessing about 5.5 to 6 knots on average.
    If memory serves the hull speed on a Gulf 29 is about 7 knts?
    thanks Mark

Viewing 10 posts - 16 through 25 (of 25 total)