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What you are needing is access to their database and a report creator such as Crystal Reports. but you will need then to allow you access to their database or a copy of it. Microsoft Access would also be able to handle your needs, as well a probably a dozen other database or reporting softwares. They would all hinge on if you can get a copy of their database. If you are doing less than say 50 boats you can do this in excel, but yes it will be a manual input, unless they can run a query file for you and you can import it into excel.
There is also a Prindle facebook page and they may be very helpful
https://www.facebook.com/groups/173120656090532/posts/3942853912450502/?comment_id=3952423778160182The last two digits on the registration located on the transom should be the year if before 1984.
The decoding of HIN numbers changed in 1984, it was still the last three digits but before 1984 it was a two digit year followed by a letter to indicate the manufacture date like 78A would be a a 78 model built in August of 1977.
It should be three digits for 1984 and on but they used a number for the month not a letter.It’s going to really depend on the year of your Prindle and what condition it’s in. Price wise.
I would market it on Facebook market place. It’s free and many many people are using and looking for stuff daily.
ThanksBeneteau by all accounts makes a pretty darn good boat. That said you would still need to do the due diligence in it’s inspection, Stuff like rigging, engine, tanks still need to be checked thoroughly or you may end up getting slapped with a surprise. Mark
I would keep the Roller, but I would devise a way to secure it in case of extra high winds. it might be plausible to use a line to literally wrap around the mast and sail to keep it contained. If it can’t be pulled out then the wind can’t get to it to shred it up. Just my opinion… Mark
there was a catalina 30 mast for sale on Craigslist in OKC just like last week…for 3 hundred something. but I just looked and don’t see it listed now.
I have an extra Hobie 16 mast you can have for free.
MarkPlum bob is the way to go. simply a string and a weight. load you boat as you would normally have it loaded and use the plum bob to create the correct angle for your wedge piece. transfer it to wood or other medium, (3d printed would be my choice) and attach. Non ferrous materials only please
it is doable… I’m not sure where your winches are mounted, but if you have a furler on the foresail and the winches are reachable from the helm, it should be fantastic! Practice makes perfect especially when docking in a cross wind. If you have an Inboard motor, be mindful of your prop walk and use it to your advantage. Mark
you can get some drag from the rudder, but it is usually minimal, More likely you need a different prop and possibly a larger motor, but I would start with the prop first… Determine what diameter and pitch you have and then go from there, basically you will not be going over 5 knots or so at full power, but what you need is to move more volume of water, usually a larger diameter and lower pitch will accomplish this. Bearing in mind what you have and what max rpm is on your Evendude one inch drop in pitch will equate to 100-200 rpm rise and one inch increase in diameter will drop the rpm about the same amount. Obviously, this is limited physically by the motor itself. If Evinrude has a sail drive (motor purpose built for being a kicker on a sailboat) check out the prop specifications and that may be a solution for you, (if it has the same HP motor)… Just remember, no matter how much power you add, you will never get much over hull speed. Thanks Mark
it really needs to be beefed up from the inside, if you glued down the backing plate it may be real fun getting it off, you probably need to see about getting some core material and then glass over it from the inside. I would choose a core material that will not degrade with time or moisture. Best of luck!
What length is your Coronado? I have a 1974 23-2 designed by Alan Payne. this company was started by Frank Butler and he later sold and started Catalina. mine is well designed and built. the Yanmar was probably added later, I think in 74 all they were using was Atomic 4. Mine is a shoal draft and great for shallow water, but does sacrifice some upwind ability for the shallow draft.
JH, I would use the originial blocks as a reference for size/ ratio. the Fiddle blocks should be easy to locate and the measurements are going to mostly relate to line size. Sheave diameter will affect your ratio, but distance between the sheaves should not. Most sheaves should have a max line size. On the Blocks, you can always go up in value, for example if you have 3:1 blocks you can always go to 4:1 it will require slightly more line, but will be easier to sheet in, and give you more power, but if you go down for example from 3:1 to 2:1 you can sheet in faster with less line, but your power goes down and effort goes up. Line size is really a personal preference as long as the working load is within range of what your boat needs. In either case, your original blocks should be a good place to start. I hope this helps Mark
Jbon, in my opinion, I would not do this in the water. As Psk125 commented, if you start drilling and get some water ingress, you may be in for a real headache. If the original bolts look that bad, I would haul out and replace the original bolts. (yes you will probably need to drop the keel for this process)I’m not aware of Columbia’s build, but the hull may be reinforced where the original bolts are and not as sturdy elsewhere. When completed, not only will you have new bolts, piece of mind, but also a good hull to keel joint.
Mark
