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Chapelle lists hundreds of vessels in his book “The American Sailing Navy”. Not sure if any of them appear on Sailboatdata’s site. Perhaps because they’re not really pertinent? There are very likely Russian books about dinghies made in Russia too, and those boats may not show up on Sailboat data either. Until Google gets done with digitizing everything – which may take a while – don’t expect to find everything online. Boats that the editors of your book felt compelled to include in their tome may not have been the big hits that their builders hoped, back 40 years ago.
Taking a different tack, please note that there is also no copyright on boat names. Six different designers could each have different designs all called “Rocket”. They could be built by twenty different builders in a dozen different countries. Some could be trimarans, others foilers. Some could be powerboats. For fun, look up how many “Spray” designs there are- several by just one naval architect. If it is any consolation, many of the dinghies whose prices you mention could probably be purchased now for less, if you can find one.
A lot depends upon the fuel pump being strong enough. It may not be, or it may simply not last long. Was your inboard also a gasoline engine? Beware of gasoline fumes in the bilge if not!! Even if gravity and proximity make the aft compartment a better place to store fuel, fumes from there can also be explosive. A bilge fan, run for a number of minutes before starting the motor, is an important safety procedure.
Not sure exactly what you are calling the jib outhaul. There’s a jib sheet that attaches to the clew, and then a traveller for the Hoyt jib boom. Looks like 1/4” or 3/16 would be enough on a boat with a jib that size. Perhaps looking up Harbor 20’s for sale and checking the pictures would give you an idea of how others are rigged and how long the lines need to be. Has the current line you have chafed through? Rotted away? This might also be helpful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UMr5XshIHkA
Have you tried West Marine? for example: https://www.westmarine.com/buy/bainbridge–sail-slugs–P002_068_001_502
If you look here https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/catalina-30 and use a pair of dividers on the floor plan you should be able to work it out. You know that the boat is 30’ long, so half of it is 15. Half of that … etc., until you get to a divider-spreading that is around one or two feet. Use that divider-spreading to determine the length and width of each space and you should be able to work out the square footage – roughly.
The bolt may have been repaired, but there may also need to be rubber and/or plastic gaskets and bedding to keep the water from getting in. The sizes and order of the pieces can make a difference. I have a 2” rubber gasket, followed by fender (big, wide) washers, and then nuts on the centerboard of my 5o5 dinghy. Your setup should be even more substantial if you’re dealing with a weighted keel. If you’re getting water above the floorboards after just one day you should be able to see the water coming in, if it’s coming in via the centerboard bolts.
These drawings might provide some ideas for the interior:
According to the drawing available here on SailboatData.com: https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/luders-36-cheoy-lee
the boat appears to have a deck (or cabin-top) stepped mast. It would have to go down through the inside aft corner of the head, and it does not show up there in the drawing. Deck-stepped and keel-stepped masts can both be climbed. They can also both be unstepped and laid down to work on. The choice may depend more upon what work needs to be done than how the mast is stepped. Unstepping the mast on a 36’ boat is an undertaking in either case. Climbing them is also dangerous, and is only done with the boat floating afaik.
Makes me want one, but our harbor is limited to 50’ max. There’s a SC 37 moored next to us, but they don’t cruise much.
Went out on a catamaran (Hobie) for the first time last week in Miami. Couldn’t believe how wet it was. Interesting to see the Maine Cat 22 has a solid bridge deck to keep things hopefully drier. Where in CT?
Space looks tight under the quarter berths, so the expense/fuel capacity ratio might not be worth it. Using the lazarette area might create issues with trim. Is this for long-term cruising in places that don’t have diesel to sell, or for a one-time long-haul voyage? We used jerrycans lashed in the cockpit to go transatlantic on a smaller boat. Kept cost down and weight relatively low – especially once fuel was used – and reduced volume of cockpit in case of boarding waves.
Looking better all the time! New ideas about sails may have come up since the one you have was last used. Checking with the original sailmaker (http://www.sobstad.com/sobstad-) may not be necessary.
Un peu juste pour une famille. Cockpit trop petit pour trois, ainsi que le salon/les couchettes. Un J/24 serait plus convenable, quoique plus difficile à remorquer, non?
If you study this picture: https://www.google.com/search?q=AMF+Apollo+16+sailboat&client=safari&rls=en&sxsrf=ACYBGNRHN4vvMsqMWthZhs1rq0Ihh327Gw:1581386506669&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=kJAB05x7CD4EBM%3A%2CxKmrXwlO6EiP8M%2C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kS9KnNhkLiH_yX0UoA265UTvcdWgw&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwj43e3ns8jnAhXNxVkKHXh4CSMQ9QEwAHoECAoQBA#imgrc=_v4igEi05qJzaM
it shows that the jib (and therefore the roller-furler) does not go through the bow roller, but attaches to the tang a little way back from the roller. Other pictures of rigged Apollo 16’s show the same relationship.
The diagram on Sailboatdata shows this same setup, PLUS what looks like your other “forestay” going further forward – perhaps to your roller at the bow. https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/apollo-16 Hard to say why it would be like that. Perhaps to hold up the mast when the jib wasn’t hoisted? Can you attach some pictures so we can see what you’re dealing with?
