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Changing the designed rig from fractional to masthead would probably not be a good idea. It would be expensive to get and install a new forestay, add a new sheave and buy a new jib. It might very well mess up the balance of the boat too, making it harder to handle and not necessarily faster. It would certainly reduce any resale value. Van de Stadt is known for well-designed and built boats.
To improve downwind speed some people do rig a masthead spinnaker on their fractionally-rigged boats, which is much simpler to do. You would need to rivet or bolt a pulley at the top of the mast, run a spinnaker halyard through it and find a suitably sized spinnaker to hoist on it. The mast might not be up to the force of the new sail, however; a strong breeze might turn the mast into a pretzel. We had a fractionally rigged J/36 and contemplated this, since some of them in Oregon have done it. Our smaller, more managable spinnaker allowed us to pass a J/35 on a downwind leg in a windy race, however, while they broached, so we decided not to change.Found this: https://www.jdpower.com/boats/1983/luger-boats/sailboats
Which makes it look like you might have a Zephyr 11.
From there, there’s also this: https://www.shoppok.com/seattle/a,29,366262,Luger-zephyr-sailboat—-900.htm
And a Luger Facebook group that has another picture of one if you scroll down far enough: https://www.facebook.com/groups/291867084201699/Did some more sleuthing and it looks like you may have a Zephyr 11. Look that up on Google. I found one for sale with a picture, and there’s also a Luger Facebook group that has a picture of one (you have to scroll a good ways to find it.)
Hard to say. The model number (F44-KD2) doesn’t bring up any helpful Google results. How big is it, or can you post a picture?
Nice ideas for further details which could be useful. Having members add the data makes it more prone to possible errors, à la Wikipedia, without the scrutiny that Wikipedia has.
Your question about roller-furling and roller-reefing gets into some technicalities. The terms can be confusing. Boats can have roller-furling mainsails, jibs, and spinnakers. Mainsails and jibs can be designed and built to be used partially rolled or unrolled, which makes them roller-reefing sails. If they’re not designed and built to be used partially rolled, the sail shape will become too baggy to perform well in heavy winds, even if the exposed sail area is reduced. With the relatively small jib on a Hunter 38, using it partially rolled in heavy air might not be overly effective. Depending upon the point of sail and wind strength it might simply be better to furl the jib entirely.
How jibs attach to the forestay depends upon the forestay. If it’s just a wire or rod, the sailmaker will use hanks. If the forestay has grooves (like a Tuff-Luff, which doesn’t roller-furl)- there will be a luff rope that slides up the groove. The sail areas are different because the r/f sail’s foot has to be cut higher, to enable it to roll up without bunching and jamming the r/f fitting. Non r/f sails don’t have this problem, so they can go all the way down to the deck, adding more sail area and creating an “end plate” effect.
People have sailed Albin Ballads all over the place. They have reputations as decent sailboats, but they are small cruising boats, not designed to handle the Roaring 40’s. Though they might heel a bit more than newer designs, they should be able to handle typical good summer weather anywhere in Europe. If you search for them under used boats for sale, many are based in the North or Irish Sea, but others are in the United States or further afield. This would indicate that they sail well in these areas, or people would not have taken them there. They are quite capable boats.
There is a pattern to HIN numbers that usually shows the design (18 at the start of yours might be that) the year of construction (maybe ’82?), what month the boat was built, and the number of the hull, along with some other information. Google may may find you something online that explains it properly.
Have sailed on a bunch: Ohlson 38, Whitby 45, Concordia 40, Hinckley Bermuda 40…
also: Pearson 36, Pearson 40, Swan 40 (S&S), Swan 40 (Frers)…
There are a lot out there. Your best bet might be to look for boats from the 70’s and 80’s in your size range here on Sailboatdata and see what their interior layouts show.Seems like you’ll need to haul out to get it fixed anyway, which would enable you to figure out how it works. Fairport Yachts (Ohio) bought the C&C brand and might have some information. Have you contacted them?
Lots of possible reasons for this to happen. Marine growth (zebra mussels?) in the centerboard slot, or rocks from a grounding could be jamming it. Taking a swim to have a look-see might help determine the problem.You may be able to stick an oar or paddle between the hull and the board and persuade it to move.
Some of what you seek is available here on Sailboatdata: https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/vega-27-albin/. “Deadweight” would be the displacement. You could also use the plan drawing (it is to scale) to determine what the freeboard is. You will have to define the “total height of the side”. It is not a common term. When these boats were first built there may not have been an official “number of people on board” maximum. Now, the number might vary according to requirements in different countries, or might vary depending upon how the boat is being used. Six people might be needed for overnight racing, for example, while in a day race having that many on board would be very crowded.
If it is a synthetic material, any dishwashing soap (Dawn, Joy, Palmolive, etc.) and water will work. It is easiest to spread the sail out on the grass and use a soft bristle brush, rinse, turn the sail over, and repeat. Getting it up off the grass will help it dry. We used to see a neighbor’s sails drying, hoisted from a tree branch in his yard.
