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That looks ragged enough to make it difficult to repair in wood. You’d have to make the hole bigger just to square it off. It already appears like it’s got a bevel on three sides. Filling it in with a fiberglass/epoxy repair would be quicker & easier than wood. Maybe with a waxed piece of plywood on the inside to create a mould & support it until it kicks. A layer or two of ‘glass cloth/epoxy, then some epoxygoop with chopped fibers for strength, then another layer or two of ‘glass cloth/epoxy to tie it in with the outside of the hole. Sand it smooth on the outside and you’re ready to paint.
If scarfing the repair into the hull would make the repair too big, perhaps you can simply fill in the hole neatly and put a big backing block – similar to a butt block used in carvel planking – on the inside. Do note that the scarfing ratio is based on the thickness of the plank you’re scarfing in to. If the hull is 1/2″ thick, the scarf would extend out 4″ from the edge of the hole if you’re working with an 8:1 ratio. Do note that, according to Google:“Traditionally, scarf ratios have been driven by the location of the scarf: 4:1 for planks, 6:1 (possibly 8:1) for keels, and 12:1 for spars.” If you make the repair with epoxy instead of wood, the ratios may be different.
A sailmaker might have a database or book of sail dimensions they could refer to. Check with one of them.
Because V-berths are a funky shape, we use two flat sheets. The bottom sheet can get tucked in under the cushions all along the sides, the bottom and top, so that it lies nicely, snug and flat on the cushions. The top sheet gets tucked in at the foot and the sides. Using oversized (King) sheets provides plenty of material to get tucked in, so that it doesn’t move much, if at all. Using fitted sheets for this would be a nightmare, unless they were measured and sewn precisely to match the exact shape – which would be its own nightmare to make. Even if you had the dimensions of the berth, you’d need to know how thick the cushions were as well for fitted sheets to actually fit. A cooler might be a better idea – but let him figure out where he wants to put it.
The size of the battens depends upon the size of the batten pockets, and they can vary considerably. If you don’t have the sail at hand to measure how wide the pocket is, it might be best to call the sailmaker
Have you looked at Marine Traffic?
It helps to have a rough idea of where the ship is headed. Bets are off if the ship’s AIS is not on.
In that case, you’ll need radar and/or someone on watch, looking.A spray hood would not seem to be something you would buy off the shelf at Jeanneau, since the last Brin de Folies were built in 1980. It will have to be built in place. The simplest approach might be to attach (bolt) a wood base to the cabintop along the sides and forward end of the open hatch. Leave holes or small gaps so that any water that gets in can drain out. (It’s a boat. There will be water getting in.) The tops of the base pieces should be perhaps 1/4″ higher than the top of the hatch. The top of the forward piece will need to be curved to match the curve of the hatch.You may also need a curved wooden frame piece on the aft end to make sure the cover is supported clear of the hatch. You can then perhaps find a sheet of fiberglass or plastic that will bend to match the curve needed, and screw or bolt it down to the frame. Voilà: spray hood.
For winches have a look on EBay or Craigslist.People usually pay a surveyor for an inspection after the seller accepts their offer on a boat. The best thing you can do is go with him (or her) for the survey. You can listen to their observations and learn a lot. Ask them questions and learn more.
The bowsprit made me think “Cape George”. They make one that’s 31’ .
https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/cape-george-31.
Hard to tell without a view of the rudder setup and spreaders. The Cape George 31 has a transom-hung rudder, two sets of spreaders and only has four portholes in the cabin trunk, so perhaps not.We might use space like that for stowing “essential liquids” Bottles can be packed there so they are readily available, but aren’t likely to bounce around and break. It would also be easy to put flares there. They’ll stay dry and be, again, readily available.
You can try shutting different seacocks to see which one stops the salt water flow. Or you can follow the water pipes or tubes back to where they exit the hull. A camera on a probe might be useful for that, since poking around in the bilge or behind furniture might be difficult.
The picture does clarify things. Those 2×6’s are pesky. They’re probably helpful for centering if you’re retrieving on a ramp, but certainly in the way now. Are they bolted on so that they could be unmounted? Otherwise, slapping some paint on in the slings is better than nothing.
If you could post a picture we might be able to understand the problem better. It is usually quite simple to lift the bow of a boat on a trailer up by using a car jack with a wooden chock and a cushion under the stem area. This should lift it enough above any forward trailer pads to get a brush of antifouling there, while the stern pads hold it steady. When that’s dry, the same technique will work with the stern.
Do you really have to lift it that far to slide a brush loaded with antifouling between the pads and the hull? Even the bottom of the keel would just need a 2″ space to get a brush in there. You could probably get that by lifting the bow first, lowering it back down, and then doing the stern. If the wood centering piece is in the way can you remove it and replace it afterwards?
