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There isn’t much information online about these boats. The long keel suggests that ballast may be internal. If it is, and if it is steel or iron punchings in a matrix, beware. Any leak or water ingress into the ballast sections of the keel will cause it to rust. Rusting causes the steel or iron to expand. This can blow the keel open and lead to the ballast falling out. If the ballast is lead or if it is externally mounted there is less to worry about.
Looks like a comfy cruiser. Where are you sailing?
Google is your friend: https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=transom+ladders&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8
We replaced ours with a telescoping one that fits flat on our sugar-scoop, but flips down and extends. It can be deployed by someone in the water, if necessary. Much better looking and safer than the folding unit that was fastened up at the taffrail.
- This reply was modified 2 weeks, 5 days ago by PaulK.
Much prettier than the center cockpit version.
What are they near to? Where do their hoses go? Checking the condition of the hoses and their hose clamps (two on each end of each hose!) is an important part of your inspection, so you need to look. The small one is likely the engine cooling water intake. Three others are likely for the galley sink, head sink, and head. Can’t guess about the other one.October 25, 2023 at 1:40 pm in reply to: SQL like query on database? Where (LOA – LWL) < 5 feet #89857
“Comfort level” is sort of like an equation that tells you that a Lamborghini TestaRossa is equivalent to a Cadillac Seville because they both have big leather seats. Not really useful.October 24, 2023 at 9:47 pm in reply to: SQL like query on database? Where (LOA – LWL) < 5 feet #89852
The best way to get this information quickly might be to perform a search that includes as many of the options as can be made at once and then do another one or two including the other criteria. You will still end up with too many boats to actually be useful, not to mention that the “comfort level” criterion is not especially valid.(It’s a calculated figure that gets warped as different hull styles come in and out of fashion.)
If you’re looking for a boat it makes more sense to see what there is for sale. . There’s no point in doing hours of investigation into hundreds of designs in order to learn that the Sealark 38 is the optimal boat for your needs and then find out that only three of them were built in 1980 at a shipyard in Croatia. Weeks more research and you could learn that one of them was run down off Bari on her maiden voyage by a Panamanian-flagged tanker, the second sank after hitting a rock off Dubrovnik in 1994. That the third is for sale in Sevastopol for 3,000 rubles and probably needs 600,000 rubles of work done to be made seaworthy again is not going to help you.
Changing the designed rig from fractional to masthead would probably not be a good idea. It would be expensive to get and install a new forestay, add a new sheave and buy a new jib. It might very well mess up the balance of the boat too, making it harder to handle and not necessarily faster. It would certainly reduce any resale value. Van de Stadt is known for well-designed and built boats.
To improve downwind speed some people do rig a masthead spinnaker on their fractionally-rigged boats, which is much simpler to do. You would need to rivet or bolt a pulley at the top of the mast, run a spinnaker halyard through it and find a suitably sized spinnaker to hoist on it. The mast might not be up to the force of the new sail, however; a strong breeze might turn the mast into a pretzel. We had a fractionally rigged J/36 and contemplated this, since some of them in Oregon have done it. Our smaller, more managable spinnaker allowed us to pass a J/35 on a downwind leg in a windy race, however, while they broached, so we decided not to change.
Found this: https://www.jdpower.com/boats/1983/luger-boats/sailboats
Which makes it look like you might have a Zephyr 11.
From there, there’s also this: https://www.shoppok.com/seattle/a,29,366262,Luger-zephyr-sailboat—-900.htm
And a Luger Facebook group that has another picture of one if you scroll down far enough: https://www.facebook.com/groups/291867084201699/
Did some more sleuthing and it looks like you may have a Zephyr 11. Look that up on Google. I found one for sale with a picture, and there’s also a Luger Facebook group that has a picture of one (you have to scroll a good ways to find it.)
Hard to say. The model number (F44-KD2) doesn’t bring up any helpful Google results. How big is it, or can you post a picture?September 20, 2023 at 9:40 am in reply to: high contrast-dark mode text and drawings, thumbnails in search, boat materials #89619
Nice ideas for further details which could be useful. Having members add the data makes it more prone to possible errors, à la Wikipedia, without the scrutiny that Wikipedia has.
Your question about roller-furling and roller-reefing gets into some technicalities. The terms can be confusing. Boats can have roller-furling mainsails, jibs, and spinnakers. Mainsails and jibs can be designed and built to be used partially rolled or unrolled, which makes them roller-reefing sails. If they’re not designed and built to be used partially rolled, the sail shape will become too baggy to perform well in heavy winds, even if the exposed sail area is reduced. With the relatively small jib on a Hunter 38, using it partially rolled in heavy air might not be overly effective. Depending upon the point of sail and wind strength it might simply be better to furl the jib entirely.
- This reply was modified 2 months, 2 weeks ago by PaulK.
How jibs attach to the forestay depends upon the forestay. If it’s just a wire or rod, the sailmaker will use hanks. If the forestay has grooves (like a Tuff-Luff, which doesn’t roller-furl)- there will be a luff rope that slides up the groove. The sail areas are different because the r/f sail’s foot has to be cut higher, to enable it to roll up without bunching and jamming the r/f fitting. Non r/f sails don’t have this problem, so they can go all the way down to the deck, adding more sail area and creating an “end plate” effect.
People have sailed Albin Ballads all over the place. They have reputations as decent sailboats, but they are small cruising boats, not designed to handle the Roaring 40’s. Though they might heel a bit more than newer designs, they should be able to handle typical good summer weather anywhere in Europe. If you search for them under used boats for sale, many are based in the North or Irish Sea, but others are in the United States or further afield. This would indicate that they sail well in these areas, or people would not have taken them there. They are quite capable boats.