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They made a lot of them, so there may be parts around. What are you missing? It might be a good idea to contact Catalina — they may have what you need in stock.
Bacon sails is the g0-to place for used sails. They may have something for a Turnabout. For a boat that small you do not want “another sail that will fit”. It will be too big or too small and be a major hassle to make work. The Turnabout Facebook page seems to be little used but there may be someone there who can give you other leads. Any sailmaker would probably be happy to make you a new sail.
The listing here on Sailboatdata: https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/trintella-29/ suggests that there is a Trintella owner’s association. https://trintella.org/en/ Have you tried contacting them? Determining its capacity might require emptying the tank and seeing how much water it takes to fill it.
A view in profile might be helpful. Lots of dinghies are set up with side tanks. Your bow opening in front of the splash rail is interesting. Does the spinnaker hoist from there? Stepping the mast aft of the bulkhead is also different from most arrangements. It looks well thought-out, possibly a French or Spanish design for the Mediterranean, or maybe from Florida, because it is bound to be wet with the centerboard slot in the bottom of the cockpit and that would be too cold to become popular elsewhere. The large flaps in the transom are an indicator of how much water comes aboard. The hardware does not seem too American. You may have a quicker answer from this site: https://www.forumvoile.com/phpbb3/ ; its focus is on dinghies. It would help to speak French there.
Maybe it’s not in the database. The boats that are mostly come from Western Europe and North America. If you know the builder or designer you can find which boats they are responsible for in the database. You don’t say what you’re looking for in your post, so it is impossible to be much more helpful than that. Perhaps the site doesn’t accept all the information you’re inputting, or the format you’re using, and defaults to a blank because of that. If the boat isn’t in the database you may be able to ask Bruce to add it. Tell us more.
Lots of different ways to add nonskid to the deck. Painting the deck with something that will hold up is a BIG job.
It entails cleaning the area with a solvent to make sure no wax or dirt keeps the paint from sticking. Then you sand it down. Then you clean it with solvent again. Then you get to paint. If you use a one-part polyurethane like Interdeck you can use it right out of the can, but we found that it lasted only about a season before needed repainting. If you don’t want to repaint every year use a two-part polyurethane. For that you need to apply a primer coat after doing the solvent wash/sand/solvent wash routine. Then you sand the primer and apply topcoats of the tw0-part paint. It is more complicated because you have to mix the paint and catalyst in the right proportions and only mix the amount of paint that you can use before it “kicks”. It is also a bit more expensive than the 0ne-part polyurethanes. On the other hand, we found that the two-part paints lasted about twelve seasons in Connecticut. We added grit to our two-part topcoats and were very happy with the results we got rolling the paint on. (Tipping wasn’t needed for nonskid.) ALL the directions on the paint – both one and two-part polyurethanes – need to be followed to the letter. Temperature, humidity, wind and rain all impact the results. Because of this – waiting for the right conditions – it took us about three weeks to paint the deck of our J/36. Note that rain leaves dirt and dust from the atmosphere on decks that have been solvent-washed, so they will need solvent-washing again if it rains. Rolling two-part polyurethanes requires using a carbon filter mask. If you spray them, positive pressure air is required. Breathing the fumes is not good for you.
An easier route might be to apply something like 3M’s Safety Walk nonskid tape. https://www.westmarine.com/3m-safety-walk-nonskid-tread-white-4inch-ld-133603.html?&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=%5BADL%5D%5BPLA%5D%20Most%20Categories_Test&utm_content=autoag0000x21019836630x133603&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw4f6zBhBVEiwATEHFVjnj3KauU3LYs_9AygEvy6fuaJ7WszTcUcMUxpb_AMD3H5EP9k3xMxoCqp4QAvD_BwE The USCG uses it on their steel decks. It comes in many different sizes and colors and seems to hold up pretty well. It would also be a LOT cheaper.
You may have to measure the angle yourself to see what it is. It may be difficult to do with the engine installed.
You could try contacting the builder: https://wdschockcorp.com. There may also be an owner’s association online.
Why are you replacing the mast and boom? They are generally considered fairly indestructible in normal use. New spars for a boat that was last built in 1983 will be mighty pricey. If you buy another used Mirage for its mast & boom, how do you know they’re any better than what you already have? Replacing rigging is more common. For that you can send your old shrouds and stays to a rigger or an outfit like West Marine and they will make a new set for you that matches. No need for you to measure anything – they’ll take care of it.
Until you hit something and put a hole or crack in the fiberglass and water gets in. Perhaps without you realizing it. Then the ballast of steel punchings starts to rust. If you don’t catch it in time the expanding rust can blow the keel open and the ballast will all fall out. Freezing water inside the keel will do this as well. A few builders do make boats with encapsulated keels. (e.g. Island Packet) and make sure that information is included in their sales literature. Island Packet uses lead, so you don’t have to worry about rust – only freezing. Brokers should be aware of any encapsulated keels in the boats they have listed and can tell customers when asked. Or the broker can be told that the potential buyer is only interested in encapsulated-keel boats, and let the broker do the research.
If a boat has them, keelbolts are usually easy to spot in the bilge. Most boats these days seem to have them.
Looks like the advice is to make a new rudder. If the original was made of plywood (photo isn’t obvious) you should be able to trace the shape out easily. Perhaps sheathe it with a layer of epoxy and fiberglass for abrasion resistance and make sure the pivot hole for the tiller is well saturated with epoxy, to keep water out of the plywood.
Fixing a leaky keel/hull joint is a major endeavor. Such leaks are frequently caused by the keel hitting something underwater. The forces involved often jam the back end of the keel up, damaging the hull there, and levering the front of the keel down, opening up the seam between the keel and hull and often damaging the hull or floors (ribs) that the keel is attached to. A proper repair usually calls for removing the keel from the hull, repairing the hull where it has been damaged, and then re-seating the keel to the hull. Getting the keel off will be essentially impossible if you are planning to beach the boat at high tide and prop it up on the shore. Taking the keel off will remove the main support that is holding the hull up. The stands that would be simply holding the boat balanced on its keel will need to actually support the hull. You would need to dig a hole under the keel so it could separate from the hull. The stands would tend to sink into the shoreline mud as the tides came and went – making the entire structure unsteady and prone to falling over.
It might be possible to do a “quick and dirty” fix by simply wrapping or covering the entire hull/keel joint with fiberglass and epoxy. This might stop the leak temporarily. But, if the keel/hull joint is damaged from a grounding, the keelbolts may not be holding the keel firmly. When the boat is refloated every wave that hits the hull will cause the keel to swing from side to side a little bit, like a pendulum. The keel on this boat weighs more than a ton; an epoxy/fiberglass band-aid wrapped around the keel/hull joint is not going to keep it from moving. The movement will end up breaking the epoxy/fiberglass joint. The leak will return and if not repaired properly the constant flexing could end up weakening the keelbolts enough that they break, and the keel falls off. This is why people with leaking keel/hull joints remove and re-attach their keels.
This boat does not appear to be a good low-cost housing option.
