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According to the drawing available here on SailboatData.com: https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/luders-36-cheoy-lee
the boat appears to have a deck (or cabin-top) stepped mast. It would have to go down through the inside aft corner of the head, and it does not show up there in the drawing. Deck-stepped and keel-stepped masts can both be climbed. They can also both be unstepped and laid down to work on. The choice may depend more upon what work needs to be done than how the mast is stepped. Unstepping the mast on a 36’ boat is an undertaking in either case. Climbing them is also dangerous, and is only done with the boat floating afaik.
Makes me want one, but our harbor is limited to 50’ max. There’s a SC 37 moored next to us, but they don’t cruise much.
Went out on a catamaran (Hobie) for the first time last week in Miami. Couldn’t believe how wet it was. Interesting to see the Maine Cat 22 has a solid bridge deck to keep things hopefully drier. Where in CT?
Space looks tight under the quarter berths, so the expense/fuel capacity ratio might not be worth it. Using the lazarette area might create issues with trim. Is this for long-term cruising in places that don’t have diesel to sell, or for a one-time long-haul voyage? We used jerrycans lashed in the cockpit to go transatlantic on a smaller boat. Kept cost down and weight relatively low – especially once fuel was used – and reduced volume of cockpit in case of boarding waves.
Looking better all the time! New ideas about sails may have come up since the one you have was last used. Checking with the original sailmaker (http://www.sobstad.com/sobstad-) may not be necessary.
Un peu juste pour une famille. Cockpit trop petit pour trois, ainsi que le salon/les couchettes. Un J/24 serait plus convenable, quoique plus difficile à remorquer, non?
If you study this picture: https://www.google.com/search?q=AMF+Apollo+16+sailboat&client=safari&rls=en&sxsrf=ACYBGNRHN4vvMsqMWthZhs1rq0Ihh327Gw:1581386506669&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=kJAB05x7CD4EBM%3A%2CxKmrXwlO6EiP8M%2C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kS9KnNhkLiH_yX0UoA265UTvcdWgw&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwj43e3ns8jnAhXNxVkKHXh4CSMQ9QEwAHoECAoQBA#imgrc=_v4igEi05qJzaM
it shows that the jib (and therefore the roller-furler) does not go through the bow roller, but attaches to the tang a little way back from the roller. Other pictures of rigged Apollo 16’s show the same relationship.
The diagram on Sailboatdata shows this same setup, PLUS what looks like your other “forestay” going further forward – perhaps to your roller at the bow. https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/apollo-16 Hard to say why it would be like that. Perhaps to hold up the mast when the jib wasn’t hoisted? Can you attach some pictures so we can see what you’re dealing with?You’ve already looked here, of course?
https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/hunter-19-europa
Photos of boats for sale will also show many details. Look up on Yachtworld or other sites. It may take some hunting to find exactly what you want to know, but it will also provide ideas about what other people have done with their boats.Picture showing all the pieces in position could be helpful. The cleat to port sounds like where the roller-furler line gets finished off. What is a “line guide”? A fairlead? A padeye? Could the shock-cord hook be something to hold the mainsail furled around the boom when it’s not hoisted?
Your best bet may be to step the mast and try to figure out where things logically want to go. Had to do this with my 505. It has controls for mast rake, mast bend, cunningham, main and spinnaker halyards, vang, trapeze wires, spinnaker pole launchers and shrouds, all coming out around the foot of the mast and having to get led back in the cockpit so they can be adjusted while sailing. It all makes sense now, but until the mast was in place, it was an incredible tangle of spaghetti.
Interesting. Looks like the tang is where the forestay should go. The block mounted further forward seems strange, but could the roller-furler line lead to it, and then aft on one side or the other, to keep the roller-furler line close to the gunwale so it doesn’t cut so much into cockpit space? What does the bottom of the forestay & r/f gear look like?
Sounds like it needs to be removed and re-bedded. A hassle and a half. The ports in our boat (not a Bounty II) don’t leak, but are getting cloudy from UV degradation. We’ve compounded them, which helps clear them for a while, but we’re going to end up having to pull them out and replace them too. A bit cheaper than having to buy a new boat, but definitely not fun.
Using an epoxy filler on the wood is not going to make the leaks (or rot) stop. The water will simply soak into more wood further on and start rotting that. The salon ports probably need to be removed, re-bedded, and reinstalled.
