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Did a quick research on plywood…
Plywood StrengthMechanical Properties Metric English Tensile Strength 27.6 – 34.5 MPa 4000 – 5000 psi Modulus of Rupture 0.0483 – 0.0689 GPa 7.00 – 10.0 ksi Flexural Modulus 8.20 – 10.3 GPa 1190 – 1490 ksi Compressive Strength 31.0 – 41.4 MPa 4500 – 6000 psi Though the thickness isn’t specified, It would seem to be substantially stronger than your foam.
Taxes paid would depend upon who the boat was sold to and where they berthed it. If the boat is Documented you should be able to get an Abstract of Title from the USCG which would show the chain of ownership. I think it costs $25USD.
It is hard to tell what your photo shows. There is not supposed to be a void under the mast or above the compression post. The whole path between the bottom of the mast and the keel should be solid. It there is a void in the top of the cabin, it would probably be best to fill it in with plywood that has had the edges epoxied to stop water ingress. Foam would be too soft and spongy to serve this purpose.
With thanks to Google Translate:
at the end of 1979 Jac de Ridder designed the Kalik 30 in Holland, a splendid Half-Tone cruising / regatta length of 9.15m and with a beam of 3.20m.
The Kalik30, a performing boat, windlass and marine, was born as a synthesis of the best creative experiences of Jacques (Kalik 33, Etap, Spirit and others) but the high production costs, given the excellent quality of the materials, did not allow a series production and the project made it possible to build, through the Lewin and Van Der Sweppen shipyards, only 25 units, each with prestigious differences and customizations that found wealthy European owners as buyers.
In the following years the molds were sold to Kyung-II, a Hyundai division, which produced a few hundred units mainly destined for the Statutinense market.
With this post, as the owner of a Kalik 30, born with the name Loumiro II and now Maracuja, I am looking for other lucky Kalik owners in Italy or Europe.
Thanks to all who will help in researching the above.Sails go up and down fairly easily. Do you want to unstep the mast? That is more difficult. The Morgan 27’s mast not deck-stepped, so you will probably need a crane to pull it out. It has to go straight up to get it out of the cabin, and then be set down gently on the ground and laid flat. It is too long, heavy and unwieldy to do by hand. Trying to unstep the mast without the proper equipment could cause extensive damage to the boat and could easily injure people nearby severely. Since the boat is almost 10’ wide you will likely need wide load permits to transport it.
Es bien esta barca: https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/seafarer-34 ? Esta barca no hay orza. No hay quilla retractible. Retractil la quilla no es possible. No hay mecanismo de acción. Muestre fotografías para que se entienda, por favor.
Thicker lines on a plan could be bulkheads. To find out, look up a boat you’re familiar with and see what the plan looks like.
Your best bet is probably a Pacer class website like this one: https://www.pacersailing.org.au/the-pacer. Sheets should probably be double braid or dyneema, depending upon your budget and how race-focused you are. Don’t get line that is too thin to handle comfortably.
Try calling Catalina on Monday. They’ll know who made masts for them. RigRite is another source worth checking out. A rigger would be able to find the lengths of the two masts and tell you if a Hunter or other mast would work, though the height of the gooseneck might not work out.
If you have a title with a HIN number, use that, and don’t lose it. Why are you questioning it? Your state calls for a title, and you have one. The state motor vehicle department – or whatever department handles boat registration – may have made up the HIN number for their own reasons when the previous owner showed up in 1995 to register the boat for the first time. Who knows? For racing, the Lightning Class Association does not care what the HIN number is. They go by the sail number, which you say is also on the centerboard trunk. If you’re still hung up about it, write the HIN number from your title on the underside of the foredeck in black sharpie letters 2″ high. Go sailing and don’t worry about it.
That makes more sense, though the information available suggests the first Carter 42 was built in 1977. This article https://goodoldboat.com/bkr-carter/ mentions Carter designing Agressive in 1972, but does not discuss any link between her and the five-year later Carter 42. Aggressive did not end up competing in the Canada’s Cup; she was eliminated in the trials.
Doesn’t look like she made the cut if she was built for Canada’s Cup. That name doesn’t appear in any of the races during the 70’s. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canada’s_Cup
Where do you have her now?Do you mean Alberg 22?
https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/alberg-22The nice woodwork is hopefully all below. Your photos don’t show the deck. Many Cheoy Lees have teak decks which leak, especially when this old, and ruin the interior. With luck the deck isn’t teak and the joinery only needs new varnish. The engine – maybe a diesel, if it’s a later one – may also be difficult to get running. Don’t worry too much about wasp’s nests when it’s so cold.
Maybe something like this:https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/luders-30-cheoy-lee ? The cove stripe isn’t the standard Cheoy Lee version, but not all their boats have it. The rudder post is also not the same – the top of your boat’s is deeper under water. The cabintop handrail on “your” boat also has nine openings, against eight on the CL 30. The sweep of the keel forefoot looks about right though, and the ports are all the right shapes and the right number so we could be close. Perhaps a different Luders design?
BINGO:
https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/luders-36-cheoy-lee
